DIM THE LIGHTS, LIGHT THE CANDLES
On Croquettes, Birthday Wishes, and the Joys of Double Shucking
Today’s warmth is brought to me by my sister, Kailey, who aptly shares her birthday with Earth Day. She’s a volunteer Butterfly Ranger, a self-taught and extremely talented wildlife photographer, and the most encyclopedic bird watcher I know (you should hear her bird calls, which are not only wildly accurate but my favorite catalysts for laughter). She organizes beach cleanups, shares only the good kind of gossip with fellow hikers and solo campers, and goes the extra mile to help turtles make it across streets safely. Just two days ago, she sent me an update from a “turtle taxi transport” (after she picked one up from the vet), and yesterday she shared footage of a gopher hoovering some grass, while thanking the little guy for sharing his lunch spot with her.
Most days of the year she only eats plant-based foods (another thing I look up to her for), but growing up, she had a recurring request on her birthdays, which was to have something my family called “chicken buns” for dinner. I’m pretty sure the recipe dates back to the early 60s, because my mom told me so, and because it involves both chicken and boiled egg salad with minced onion, “salad dressing” (Miracle Whip), “pickle relish,” “plain white burger buns,” and “¼ lb cubed Velveeta.” The buns get wrapped in aluminum foil and warmed in the oven until the cheese melts through and the salad mixture becomes…steamed? They fill the house with an aroma too specific to the combination of ingredients to even begin to describe, and, in my opinion, they leave a lot to be desired—as much as I love copycatting my sister (always will), I’ve never taken pleasure in her beloved chicken buns. I’ve been enjoying experimenting with croquettes lately, though, so with dill, gruyere, cooked chicken, and a few other things in the fridge, I made a tower of them with different takes on similar ingredients and flavors to the buns. It was a way of celebrating her from afar, without hot Miracle Whip or Velveeta. I called them “makeover chicken buns,” because it’s my job as a younger sibling to mess with her things (as a child I was known to blow out her birthday candles).
Beyond fried goat cheese balls (and no hate to them), I think about croquettes as a means to cook really creatively, with so many factors at play for crunchy exteriors (crushed pistachios? cornflake crumbs? sesame seeds?), comforting fillings (including sweet ones like pastry cream), and binders/dips/sauces that thoughtfully tie everything together. They’re ideal for stretching out ingredients or using up leftovers, too. It’s funny to me that Top Chef judge Tom Colicchio became visibly annoyed when most contestants chose to make croquettes during a recent challenge, as if they couldn’t possibly impress him—I’m still dreaming about the sweet potato croquettes served with cherry creme fraiche and smoked salmon roe at a dinner party hosted by the most talented professional chefs I know. I want these smoky eggplant ones right now.
In other (belated but still very special) birthday happenings, Sam’s was on Wednesday. At first I thought I’d try to devise a meal that matched my love for the occasion, which frankly, is an impossible task—anyone who knows Sam knows that. Instead I asked him for his requests, which included beef kofta for dinner, and for dessert, a very Sam order of Carrot Cake Cinnamon Rolls FTW. Naturally, he and I were both fans of the whole spread, but by far the greatest part was the news we got while eating it: Our new nephew was about to be born. We got to meet him last night at family dinner, and, I mean…he’s perfect.
Before family dinner, yesterday morning Sam and I went to the farmers’ market, and immediately upon returning home, before putting anything away in the fridge, I started shucking beans and peas. I know some people find it a pain, but to me it’s one of the most satisfying tasks—the fuzzy interiors of fava beans? Nothing better. I purposefully took my time with each one, and when I was finished, I waited a while before cleaning the tiny green flecks of shells and spines that were lodged under my fingernails, as if more beans and peas were going to turn up and I’d get to keep going.
My cooking plans for the week ahead include a second round of shucking (post-blanching) to remove the thin membranes still remaining on the beans and the peas, and pairing them with things like roasted beets, avocado, citrus, and herbs—perhaps a puree, probably a few salads, and most definitely some straight out of the pot and their casings. Lots of vegetables, too. Until I have more to share on that, here are some photos of Boots after chowing down a bowl of dry cereal, with one remaining Rice Krispie on his nose:
And from the last week, a compilation of some of the cooking-related subject lines of my inbox:
Are microplastics in your plastic olive oil bottle?
NEW: The Coated Pan In Color Sky 🌀
"The Very Best Curry Rub Ever!"
Garlic pasta with greens, ultrafast and flexible
Which measuring cup is right for you?
Hot Honey Chicken
Get Inspired by Chef Dominique Crenn
LAE Exclusive: Enjoy 20% Off Your Culinary Adventure at the 'Tale of Two Cities' Dinner Series
Chef Melissa Ben-Ishay makes salad a star
Nick Bramham’s Crab Tagliatelle with Butter, Pepper, and Garlic
Simple, with shortcuts: salmon with leeks and tomatoes, chilaquiles verdes
Patisseries and Delicatessens to Visit in This Barcelona Neighborhood
Flawless fork-tender brisket, easy & craveworthy broccoli soup, crispy chicken...
Indian Omelet Sandwich
How to use that bag of frozen peas and carrots
The À La Carte Collection 👋
Take 20% Off Essential Prepware
Pantry overhaul? We’ve got you covered.
The Veggie: Dinner party plans for every effort level
Does the Color of Carrots Affect Their Flavor?
Bring on the brisket
Eat like the team
Date Night with Mom: Delicious food, lifelong memories.
A Few Good Meals: Aries Season Edition
Cookbook club this weekend!
The Pan Just for Grilling
April showers bring sopa de fideos
Slice, Slice Baby 🔪
A classic chicken dish that makes you feel like a grown-up
More gochujang pasta, please
NEW | The Butter Apron 🧈
THE ULTIMATE TUNA SANDWICH 🥪
Will it Waffle?
What Happens When You Stop Cooking?
Salads Get Weary, Yes They Do Get Weary
turmeric
If You’re Not Ordering Dessert at L’Industrie, You’re Missing Out
Ogatan Charcoal - Buy 4 Get 1 Free
A SAUCY SURPRISE AWAITS ❤️🔥
INTRODUCING TANDOORI 2.0!
In Meghalaya, Where “Local” Means Eating Plants That Are Known Only in One Village
Announcing – Earth Day Foraging & Cooking Class
A Party Favor
Where Will Guidara eats in NYC
No, you don't need to chug olive oil
Dotdash Meredith is hiring: Food News & Deals Writer, Commerce.
an excellent cheesy egg bake soufflé thing!
Melting Lemon Chicken
It's lemon-garlic-oil season
lamb & harissa bolognaise with spaghetti
Shuck, Shuck, Pass 🦪💨
🧄 A Consuming Passion for Garlic + fabulous vintage bakes 🍰
NEW: TUNA SAMMIE STICKERS ⭐
James Park gets spicy & saucy with his debut, Chili Crisp
A warm weather tomato sauce 2 ways, Bruno's escape from the crib, and a fresh juice without a juicer.
Easy L.A. roadtrips for a hike + lunch
Eat Good Catfish Laab
Green Goodness! All Organic Salads $3.99 ea. or 2/$7
Get dinner on the table in a flash with our simple recipes.
SMOKED FISH SOBA
Big Salad Readers Share 22 Favorite Things, and We Are Very Into Them
A PEEK IN OUR KITCHEN
fried mozzarella morels
Dinner Tonight: Plant-Based and Fabulous 🌱
Contract Food Writer & Photographer, Taste of Home role at TMB (Trusted Media Brands) and other opportunities open
Louisiana-style smoky beans and rice 🫘
This Idaho white sturgeon caviar is ssssmokin'
Ricotta meatballs with rosemary tomato sauce
Anyone can compost, cook sustainably and more
Is Olive Oil Dangerous to Cook With?
Potato gnocchi drenched in a madly moreish chilli crisp sauce
A "HOW I COOK" LIFE UPDATE
Country Fried Cinnamon Rolls
Treat Mom to a beautiful, breezy brunch.
The $2.3 Billion Global Industry Taking Over Your Grocery Store Fridges
Lime turmeric rice noodles salad with asparagus
Anti-dairy rebellion
what i ate this week
we 🤎 potatoes
REPLAY! Potato and Asparagus Tortelli
Creamy Rigatoni with Crispy Chickpeas, Spinach and Lemony Panko by James Park
Last 2 Days to Order a Salt Tiger!
Culinary Assistant for R&D Team Needed