BACKGROUND NOISE
An Introduction by Way of Sentimental Kitchen Sounds and Sensory Experiences
Who keeps you company while you’re peeling vegetables? What smells transport you back to meals from childhood? When will you absolutely refuse to eat a tomato? Where would you take your hero grocery shopping? Why do you always return to that one specific recipe, and would you please share it with me?
I’m not big on ice breaker activities, but these are the types of prompts that keep my favorite conversations going. What I want to know about a person is everything from their signature potluck dish to the variety of hot sauce they’re obsessed with. Since this newsletter is indeed very new, and I’m so very grateful that you’re here, I figured I’d start by paying tribute to what makes up the “background noise”—in my head and in real life—while I’m in all forms of cooking mode.
FAMILY & FRIENDS
However our home was intentionally designed, it came together with Sam’s office existing as an extension of the kitchen, and I wouldn’t have it any other way. Most days that means there’s a work meeting happening, a live NBA game streaming, or an online photography course and new skate video playing simultaneously while Kitty is neck-deep (or deeper) in an empty paper bag and Boots is licking my ankles as I’m hunched over the cutting board. These are slightly chaotic but ideal and deeply soothing circumstances.
Calling, texting, and thinking of friends and family before and after cooking comes as second nature. Emily and Frena are always on standby for kitchen updates, even when chances are high that I’m about to do something terribly wrong, flooding my phone with clapping and drooling emojis and making my heart feel full despite the outcome. Brittney, Chloe, and I share a Google doc with all the restaurants we’re dying to try next time we’re reunited, and we make it a priority to follow through with untamed food tours in LA and Toronto. My sister responds to unsolicited photos of plates filled with roasted vegetables, hot chicken sandwiches, mountainous salads, and homemade Rice Krispie squares: “coming over right now,” or, “I’ll take one of everything for the table, please.” Last year, as a surprise for my 30th birthday, she showed up at my front door in search of the coveted marshmallow cereal bars. When I’m back in Canada, I love nothing more than packing her lunch for work, cooking her dinner when she gets home, and going on late night trips to Shoppers Drug Mart together to secure our favorite chips—Doritos and Miss Vickie’s, forever. We’re both Taurus women, and we know what we like.
At my old job, the sound of Slack notifications would typically send me into a spiral, but when they came from the “whats_for_dinner” channel with close colleagues, I could. not. wait. to read their plans, reviews, and thoughts on what they were making.
Some food-related family memories I regularly think about: My grandma Houle’s famous chocolate chip cookies, which, if my memory is accurate, involve molasses and create the perfect crispy-chewy texture. My Nanny snapping the ends of green beans on the couch in the afternoon before a holiday dinner. My mom making me what we referred to as “cheese bubblies”—literally broiled slices of cheddar on toast—after dance practices. My dad taking me to the same grocery store that he worked at when he was a teenager, suggesting I choose a fruit I’d never tried before, or, on really delightful days, frozen smoked salmon we’d thaw out on the dashboard of his van and eat with our hands.
Every Sunday night, Sam’s parents uphold a tradition of getting together for family dinner. Everyone has incredible taste and, collectively, insane amounts of cooking knowledge. No one is ever worried about requesting a different doneness on their protein or going in for seconds and thirds. It’s a pure joy to be a part of. When Sam can’t make it because of work or travel, we all feel the void but feast on fish because he despises seafood. Last night, while he was asleep in Louisiana, we ate Arctic char, and it was good. Miss you, Sam.
ADVICE FROM CHEF INSTRUCTORS AT CULINARY SCHOOL
“It’s never your job to be stressed out.”
Maybe that’s extremely obvious, but maybe that’s also the point. From having your heart set on making an extravagant birthday cake to moving through a professional restaurant environment, work in the kitchen can call for your best efforts and be enjoyable at the same time. In my opinion, the best things come from focus and fun.
“Look out for people.”
In other words: Have their backs. Check in on them. Ask them what you can do to help. Remind them they’re appreciated. Bring them a treat!
“Clear station, clear mind.”
Making a habit out of cleaning as I go is something I’m still working on applying to all areas of my life, because it helps in big ways. Right now, my desk-slash-dining-table is almost entirely covered with books, unopened mail, two different water glasses and an empty coffee mug. We’ll get there.
A SHORT SUMMARY OF MUSICIANS I KEEP ON REPEAT
Alanis Morissette
Amy Winehouse
Beverly Glenn-Copeland
Brian Eno
Blink 182
Celine Dion
Mariah Carey
Muna
Sheryl Crow
Solange
Sonia Spence
Swamp Dogg
NEW & OLD FAVORITE PODCASTS
Be My Guest with Ina Garten
Food with Mark Bittman
Game of Roses
Gloss Angeles
HeidiWorld: The Heidi Fleiss Story
Home Cooking
Normal Gossip
POOG
Sexy Unique Podcast
Snacky Tunes
Song Exploder
Sounds Like A Cult
The Splendid Table
ARTISTS, BOOKS, COOKS, AND WRITERS OF THINGS THAT RESONATE (AND THAT I ADMIRE)
Alicia Kennedy
Arabelle Sicardi
Ben Sanders' Kitchen and Ben Sanders’ Studio
Camille Okhio
Devan Diaz
Editorial Magazine
Haley Mlotek
Hetty Lui McKinnon
LA Times Image, forever
Little Spoon Zines
Marian Bull
Max Neely-Cohen
Mayukh Sen
Michael the III
Naomi Skwarna
Nell Jocelyn Slaughter
Nikki Maloof
Rebecca May Johnson
Romany Williams
Sohla El-Waylly
Tamara Shopsin
The Believer
The Creative Independent
Vittles
Too Much and Not the Mood by the one and only Durga Chew-Bose
The Best American Food Writing 2023 (and every year)
Eat Joy: Stories & Comfort Food From 31 Celebrated Writers
Women on Food
Pets: An Anthology
An Illustrated Catalog of American Fruits & Nuts by John McPhee, Marina Vitaglione, and Michael Pollan
GENERAL KITCHEN VALUES
Make food that makes people feel good.
Be conscious about using seasonal ingredients for all their parts.
Always be curious about ways to do better.
Acknowledge and give credit to those who’ve informed or shaped your approach to cooking.
Lean into creativity and silliness.
*****
OK, no doubt I’ve forgotten to mention many things and also revealed too much about myself, so that’s all for now. Soon to come will be recipes for your dearest Valentine, somewhat of a fridge/pantry tour, a fun exploration of napkin folds, and more. Until then, I leave you with this collage of Kitty being the most loveable kitchen menace—
x,
Erika
Ahhhh 🥲🥲🥲👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
❤️🧡💛💚💙💜